After a little over two weeks in Nepal Mike, my hairy adventurer, is home safe and sound. He's agreed to tell us about his trip and today is his first guest post, sharing about the first few days in Nepal. Thank you BoyF!
Mid last year I received a call from friend Tanya, asking if I wanted to do the Everest Base Camp trek. A quick call to very supportive Delanie resulted in 'of course'. Delanie was welcome to attend, however she politely said 'no way, but have fun'. Between Tanya's wedding, a work trip to Singapore, our engagement, engagement party and wedding planning, the months disappeared and only a token effort in the training department was managed. Nonetheless, it was time to leave for Kathmandu, Nepal.
A chaotic and crazy cab trip from the airport to the hotel had both Tanya and I looking out the window wondering what on earth we were in for. Our trek guide Maski had met us at the airport, telling us about Kathmandu, but then we were on our own to explore before a group meeting the next evening.
After a quick walk around the local hotel area, Thamel, we decided it was time for an early dinner. The Lonely bible (Lonely Planet guide book) was consulted to find a restaurant. Walking up a laneway we were somewhat apprehensive, but headed through the gate to find a garden oasis.
We liked the restaurant so much we went back the next day for lunch. (And brought the whole tour group back for the final goodbye dinner!)
We started the morning with a walk to Durbar Square, the centre of Kathmandu's old town. The route took us out of the tourist areas and we started seeing some of 'real Kathmandu'. There were temples and deities in the side streets, so many, everywhere we looked.
A temple of Durbar. No photos allowed inside, but amazing architecture and detailed carvings.
In the evening we met the rest of our tour group. Scott, an Australian surf lifesaver from Sydney was my roommate for the next week. We had a chat and a beer before the meeting; I had a feeling this was going to be a good trip. A quick briefing from Maski - for every rule announced I couldn't wondering about the indiscretion that led to it's creation. ;)
For dinner Maski took us to Rum Doodle, an iconic mountaineers bar. The walls are lined with the signatures of people who have summitted Everest, then come back to claim their night of free celebrations. We were given a plywood foot to take to Base Camp with us, the intent for it to be added to the roof with all the others. (In fact, the foot never made it back and is gracing the dining hall in Kyangjuma along the way.)
Up before dawn, we headed to Kathmandu airport for our flight to Lukla. As soon as we got to the chaos of the domestic terminal, I was glad we had booked a tour and didn't have to navigate this on our own. Maski rushed us to the front to the line, through security and before we knew it we were on the first plane to Lukla.
I don't think the others knew quite what they were in for. The plane, a twin engine turbo prop Twin Otter, looks like a big Cessna that you would see at a country airport. Before the engines started, we had our safety briefing and were offered cotton wool for our ears and a sweet. The plane took off within what feels like 10 metres, making me wonder why they bother with runways when the taxiway is just as long. Soon we were watching the mountains glide past, some a lot closer than others. It felt like a Starwars TIE Fighter going through the valleys.
Then we saw the Lukla runway.
Most runways are flat, but this one runs uphill and is short. Very short. With a mountain backstop, no chance of a go-around. The pilot landed with ease; I don't think this was his first rodeo. With the engines still running we were whisked off the plane, our trek was about to begin.
But first, breakfast.